The 19th century was a period of dramatic change in fashion, and underneath the elaborate gowns and tailored suits, underwear played a crucial role in achieving the desired silhouette and maintaining hygiene. For women, the evolution of undergarments was particularly significant, reflecting societal expectations and technological advancements. This report will delve into the layers of underwear worn by women throughout the 19th century, examining the materials, styles, and functions of each garment.

The foundation of a woman's wardrobe in the 19th century was the chemise. This simple, loose-fitting garment, typically made of linen or cotton, served as a barrier between the skin and Крок 1: Розуміємо склад та особливості матеріалів (https://royalshop.pp.ua) the outer layers of clothing. Its primary purpose was to absorb perspiration and protect the more expensive and difficult-to-clean dresses from body oils and sweat. Chemises were generally knee-length or slightly longer, with short or three-quarter length sleeves. The neckline was often low and square or round, and the garment was usually undecorated, although finer examples might feature delicate embroidery or lace trim. The chemise was considered a basic necessity, and even women of lower social classes would have owned several. The looseness of the chemise also provided a degree of comfort and freedom of movement, which was important considering the restrictive garments that would be layered on top.

Over the chemise, women wore stays, more commonly known as corsets. The corset was arguably the most defining undergarment of the 19th century, shaping the torso into the fashionable silhouette of the era. Early in the century, the Empire silhouette, inspired by ancient Greece, favored a high waistline just below the bust. Corsets during this period were shorter and less restrictive than those that would follow, primarily supporting the bust rather than dramatically cinching the waist. These "short stays" were often made of cotton or linen and lightly boned with reeds or whalebone.

As the century progressed, the ideal silhouette shifted towards a smaller waist and a more hourglass figure. Corsets became longer and more heavily boned, extending from just below the bust to the hips. Whalebone, also known as baleen, was the preferred material for boning due to its flexibility and ability to mold to the body. Steel boning became more prevalent later in the century, offering even greater support and shaping. Corsets were laced tightly at the back, often requiring the assistance of a maid or another person. The pressure exerted by the corset could be considerable, and while some women embraced the fashion, others suffered from discomfort and even health problems.

The shape of the corset evolved throughout the century, reflecting changes in dress styles. The early Victorian era saw the rise of the "spoon busk" corset, which featured a curved front panel designed to flatten the stomach. Later in the century, the "cuirass" corset, made of multiple shaped pieces, became popular, molding the torso into a smooth, sculpted shape. Despite criticisms regarding their impact on women's health, corsets remained a staple of fashionable dress throughout the 19th century.

Beneath the corset, women often wore a corset cover, also known as a chemise corset or underbodice. This garment served several purposes. Firstly, it protected the corset from body oils and sweat, extending its lifespan. Secondly, it provided a smooth surface over which the outer garments could drape. Corset covers were typically made of linen or cotton and were often decorated with lace, embroidery, or ribbons. They usually had straps or sleeves to hold them in place and could be buttoned or tied at the front or back.

Another essential undergarment was the petticoat. Petticoats were skirts worn under the dress to provide fullness and shape. In the early 19th century, petticoats were often made of linen or cotton and were relatively simple in design. As skirts became wider, multiple petticoats were worn to achieve the desired volume. The introduction of the crinoline in the mid-19th century revolutionized skirt support. The crinoline was a cage-like structure made of steel hoops, which allowed women to achieve the fashionable wide skirts without the weight and bulk of multiple petticoats.

Over the crinoline, women typically wore a single petticoat to smooth out the lines of the hoops and prevent them from showing through the dress. These petticoats were often made of starched cotton or linen to provide additional stiffness. As the bustle became fashionable in the late 19th century, petticoats were adapted to accommodate the protruding rear. Bustle petticoats were often padded or shaped to enhance the bustle effect.

Drawers, also known as pantalettes, were bifurcated garments worn under the petticoats. In the early 19th century, drawers were often separate legs that tied at the waist. As the century progressed, drawers evolved into a single garment with two legs attached to a waistband. They were typically made of linen or cotton and were often trimmed with lace or embroidery at the hem. Drawers were considered a relatively new addition to women's underwear in the 19th century, and their adoption was gradual. While some women embraced them for reasons of modesty and hygiene, others considered them unnecessary or even immodest.

Stockings were an essential part of 19th-century women's attire. They were typically made of knitted cotton or wool and were held up by garters tied above or below the knee. Silk stockings were a luxury item worn by wealthier women. The color of stockings varied, but white and black were the most common choices.

In conclusion, 19th-century women's underwear was a complex and multi-layered system designed to achieve the fashionable silhouette of the era while also providing a degree of comfort and hygiene. From the simple chemise to the restrictive corset and the voluminous petticoats, each garment played a specific role in shaping the body and supporting the outer layers of clothing. The evolution of underwear throughout the century reflected changes in fashion trends, technological advancements, and societal attitudes towards women's bodies. While the garments themselves may seem cumbersome and restrictive by modern standards, they offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives and expectations of women in the 19th century.